Wednesday, 28 September 2011

If you have a choice, don't go to Bentiu

When I arrived at UNHCR HQ in Juba, South Sudan, colleagues asked me where I would be posted.  I answered as per my position description: one of 4 duty stations, Aweil, Bentiu, Kwajok or Wau.  One colleague had been to most of those duty stations and he advised, 'If you have a choice, don't go to Bentiu, that's the toughest place'.  Another colleague who had just returned from Bentiu told me that he wouldn't send a female staff member there. 

So, here I am! Bentiu (or more accurately, Rubkona), in Unity State, South Sudan.

I live at the UNMISS compound, which basically consists of a bunch of containers and four-wheel drives.  There are about 6 women here and around 200 men, but since everyone is entitled to R&R holidays every 6 weeks people keep coming and going.  We also get a spattering of NGOs, journalists and consultants passing through which keeps things interesting. 

Good things about Bentiu: sunsets, mongoose, Mr Mohammed's shop which sells freshly baked bread daily.  Good things about UNMISS: air conditioning, internet, a huge generator. 
Bad things about Bentiu: jumpy insects, large insects, biting insects, only being able to buy 5 sorts of vegetables at the market, if you're lucky.  Bad things about UNMISS: shared bathrooms and kitchen, having to get water at a collection point in a bucket and lugging it back to your room.

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